Catfish are one of the only fish that I encounter that I wish were harder to catch. In the tributaries of the Chesapeake Bay, blue catfish account for up to 75% of the fish biomass. Blue catfish are not native to the Bay, but they have established themselves in such abundance that they’re hard to avoid.

If you drop a hook in the water with any type of bait on it, there's a good chance a blue cat is going to find it. Even when trolling, jigging, or casting artificial lures, these predator catfish have a knack for confusing and disappointing you when they smash a lure intended for a different species. The problems, both present and potential, associated with blue catfish in the Chesapeake Bay ecosystem are complex and require ongoing research.

What is not complex is catching a pile of these fish and their palatability. Blue catfish are tasty. I don’t think I’ve ever had one from these waters that was “muddy” tasting, and there’s no shortage of them.

While I enjoy fried catfish as much as anyone else, I find that I usually have more catfish than I can justify frying. This smoked catfish bridges a gap between fish and ham; I use the smoked fillets in any dish that needs what a ham hock would provide—smoke and salt.

Stylistically, this is less delicate cold-smoked salmon and more country-style ham. You can eat it straight up, puree it into a dip, or add chunks to your gumbo or chowder. This smoked catfish can lend a hand to any dish that could benefit from smoked meat.

Other than the fish, there are only two ingredients: salt and sugar. The key to success here is the preparation of the fillets before smoking. The cure will draw out moisture and firm up the meat, as well as give it that salty characteristic. The longer you leave the cure on, the saltier they’ll get. I find that 4 hours is ideal for my intended uses of the smoked fish.

Once the fillets are cured, you want to get them dry, which will allow the smoke to permeate the meat. As the exterior dries, a pellicle will form. This will give them a semi-glossy sheen, and they should feel slightly tacky. Keep the fillets in the fridge, uncovered, or if you want to speed up the process, use a fan or keep them in a breezy area at room temp.