Turkey season is all about transitions. At the beginning of my season, I drive to hunt with the heat on in the truck, and you can usually see your breath in the predawn. By mid-season, I’m running the AC and soaked in sweat by the end of the morning. This transition happens with the dishes I cook as the season progresses as well—sausage, braises, and stick-to-your rib-meals transition to lighter fare like smoked breasts, fresh greens, and salads.

This green papaya salad is light and refreshing, yet doesn’t lack savory elements. Ripe papaya is known for its sweet tropical flavor, but when it's green, it has a crisp texture similar to green mangos, jicama, or chayote (all of which would make great substitutes for green papaya). Paired with carrots, green onions, and a savory dressing with a little heat, it’s a perfect mid-day meal or a light dinner alfresco.

I use turkey tenders for this salad for a few reasons. First, they‘re the perfect size for this salad, one tender per person. Second, they’re tender, so no need to fuss with them. Turkey breasts can be used as well, but I’d recommend slicing them cross-grain and giving them a once-over with a tenderizing mallet. Braised thigh meat also works wonderfully. Whatever part of the turkey you want to use, season lightly—the dressing has plenty of character.

Make the dressing ahead of time to allow the flavors to meld. Choose a papaya that is entirely green and doesn’t have any soft spots. Peel the skin off, cut it in half, and scoop out the seeds and soft parts. Slice the papaya and carrots thinly with a mandolin or knife. Remember to remove the tendon from the tenders before cooking, and after cooking, allow them to rest before slicing cross grain.